Ruinart Chef de Cave Frédéric Panaiotïs
Dom Ruinart La Réserve 1998 – Only available via Twitter!
Ruinart enters the game of late-disgorged champagnes with its 1998 Dom Ruinart La Réserve. And with a quite unique sales concept. The very limited lot of bottles can only be purchased via Twitter by contacting Les Carnets Ruinart (@carnetsruinart). They will decide if you will be lucky and are allocated your maximum 3 bottles. Then you can buy them via a special La Réserve site https://lareserve.ruinart.com for 380 euro each.
But the wine is worth applying for! Closed for tirage with natural corks and having been sur point since 2013, this wine showcases the best of what long lees ageing can give. La Réserve 1998 is super Burgundian in style, beautifully lined by reductive, smoky-mineral notes and buttery generosity. There is a cool feeling given by the slightly vegetal edges of the fruitiness. It comes with amazing textural richness on the still lean, dynamic palate. Full of vitality and strength. Quite a different beast to the ready-to-drink, rich and calm Dom Ruinart 1998, which we tasted side by side. If the 1998 can be this good, I only wonder what a wine the 2002 La Réserve will be!
96 points with potential for 97
Dom Ruinart 2006 – Generous and winey
Strong and youthful, distinctly Burgundian nose with savoury spicy-toasty and nutty layers. Lots of aromatic evolution already, and less on the reductive side than usual. Instead, overt, generous and welcoming with winey profile and pristine fruit purity. Chunky, rich and round, almost oily-textured palate that is lifted by a beautiful mineral sensations on the back palate, which is further accentuated by a light phenolic bite at the finish that is truly dry with 4,5g/l dosage. An instantly impressive, voluptuous Dom Ruinart for medium-term drinking.
92 points with potential for 94
Dom Ruinart Rosé 2004 – Pure and invigorating
Deep onionskin colour. Still reserved, fruit-packed nose holding back a lot. Intense yet fresh and lively palate. Floral potpourri emerges over time in the glass enriched by beautiful gunpowdery toastiness, toffee and spicy complexity. The firm and focused palate has a touch of tannin, super lightly dosed at 4g/l. Lovely fruit purity and intensity on the invigorating finish.
94 points with potential for 97